Jeonju
JEONJU. FINALLY. I visited this town last year and I missed it a lot. Nature and tradition is more of my thing so I wanted revisit and see this place. I themed this trip: walking and healing. Surprisingly, I wasn't tired by the hours of walking. I'm not one for walking or exercising.
I had been waiting months to visit the town again, just to see the old Korea in my favorite season Fall. I waited 16 months. OTL I was actually holding it off because of the train ticket price to visit Jeonju, and the odd timings for the train trips considering my school. I also hated traveling overnight by myself. My friend told me about a free shuttle bus so I decided to step out of my comfort zone and go for it.
Dongbo Travel offers a free shuttle bus that ferries foreigners to and from Jeonju or Gwangju. This service runs only on the weekends (fri-sun) and runs on a balloting system. You are supposed to propose your departure and arrival date, and the company will work out the name list to fit the bus limit. Each applicant is only allowed to apply for a maximum of 2 tickets.
The bus departs from Seoul at 8am and arrives at Jeonju around noon. Later in the day, the bus departs from Jeonju at 5pm and arrives in Seoul around 10pm. If you plan on just staying within the traditional village, then one day will be enough for you. If you want to visit the historical sites and parks outside the village, go for an extra day and take your time. You can apply for the Friday Seoul shuttle ticket and a Sunday/Saturday Jeonju shuttle ticket.
Apply for your shuttle ticket here!
[Update: Check out the comments section! I feel honored that they read my post. o.O Hehe excited rookie blogger... Anyways, the Free Shuttle is closed for January and February, and will restart in March. I believe it's for the safety of the passengers due to the icy roads? That's just my guess. For tourists arriving in January or February, I guess it's the train for you then? I'm not sure if the KTX strike has blown over yet...]
One thing about touring Jeonju: you need a car. And GPS. Sites outside of the village require you to know the address for the taxi driver or the GPS system. I spent quite a lot of money on cab fare because the bus map was totally different from the Google maps directions. The taxi driver even brought me to a different site with the same name. WIN.
Pumpkins in a tree…Yes… |
6 dollars, people. |
Directions to 지연식당:
From 경기전, walk right down one block to 팔달로 road and cross the road. Turn right and walk until 전라강영로. Walk down one block past the police station and further. 지연식당 is on the next block. |
So I had a whole itinerary for Jeonju, but that flew out the window when the taxi driver took me to a different location. I decided to just visit the monuments near my location, which was actually my itinerary for day 2. The common monuments are fairly close to each other so you can find all of them within two(?) hours.
Arrived at a random "where" |
Walked up the steps to uncertainty |
It was a Buddhist temple so I didn't go in |
Walked down to Hanbyeokdang |
Crossed over to the Confucian school |
Found the Namcheon Bridge |
Imokdae |
Omokdae |
Then there's the food. When Koreans are asked about Jeonju, they usually answer, "Bibimbap". Jeonju has fresh ingredients that make the best Bibimbap because their bibimbap is refreshing. The big bean sprouts are Jeonju's specialty, and the seasoned raw beef makes it additionally delicious. I, personally, have never had warm bean sprout soup that's cooling. Have you? Anyways, if you are in Jeonju, I recommend taking a taxi down to GoGung (고궁). Some bloggers have said that this is the typical and tourist-y restaurant to get Jeonju Bibimbap, which to me meant that the food would not be good. Boy, was I wrong. Out of the three different places I visited, this was the best. The price was the same, but the taste was so different.
Directions: Take a taxi. Tell them "Gogung Restaurant" or this address: 168-9, Deokjindong2-ga, Jeonju, Jeollabuk-do, South Korea.
Alternatively if you are going from Deokjin Park, turn right and walk to the huge highway. Gogung is a building by itself.
Jeonju raw beef Bibimbap KRW13,000 |
My favorite autumn squash pancake |
Directions: Turn right behind the Uniqlo building and walk until you see "고궁". The restaurant is on the second floor.
Update: Guess what! EatYourKimchi have done their own vlog about the Gogung Bibimbap! You can check it out here too. (Perhaps these lovely Westerners will convince my dear disgusted Westerners to eat the raw beef... My own Asian friends were terrified when they heard about raw beef.)
Day 2
I thought I'd have the famous rice-soup for breakfast but since there was a long queue, I didn't bother. Instead, I had Bibimbap (again) for breakfast near the Gyeonggi Palace. It was, of course, not as good as Gogung's.
Directions: From the Gyeonggi Palace entrance, turn right into the alley and walk on until you see a building restaurant selling the bibimbap.
Raw beef bibimbap KRW13,000 |
Entering the Gyeonggi Palace |
The Catholic Cathedral (Lol I had to share this) |
Pungnam Gate |
Confucian School |
First, there's the archery ground. This ground was used by the aristocrats to practice archery. To this date, the ground is still being used by citizens, and the rest of the area has been turned into a park.
I could hear arrows fly past me |
KRW6,000? |
Here's a map of the places that I visited, in case you are confused. It's up to you to make your route ^^ Also, Gogung and Deokjin Park are off the map because of their distance from the village. So I recommend a taxi so you don't get lost.
I had visited Jeonju during the food festival so there were many exhibits for the food competition. These are entries created by the young chefs of cooking academies.
The milk foam looked creepy. |
The traditional king's dessert. (Available in Seoul) |
Sarah do you recommend if I were to go Jeonju just for a day trip ?
ReplyDeleteSure! There's plenty that you can do within the day. Just make sure you visit the iconic places and eat the iconic foods. The sites seem very far but they are actually very close to each other. Places like the Deokjin Park and the Archery Groud, you can pass if you are going in winter coz there's nothing to see. The lotus were dying when I went in October.
DeleteBesides, Jeonju in winter would be beautiful.
Am coming to Seoul in April 15-25. Best to go during weekdays ? Besides the Hanok Village and the bibimbap which I will go and try. Any other must see places ?
ReplyDeleteSpring would be pretty! You can try the parks? Deokjin should be pretty in spring. Weekdays would be best because the trains are less packed.
DeleteHi Sarah! this is Jeonju Free Shuttle Center^^ We just found your posting while searching some information to promote Jeonju free shuttle service for 2014. Thank you so much for this wonderful posting about Jeonju♥ This will be the perfect motivation and tips to travel Jeonju for other tourists that haven't visited Jeonju yet ! So happy to know that our free shuttle service could give you the chance experiencing the beautiful city, Jeonju. For 2014, the free shuttle service will be restarted form March ( Not for Jan/Feb ). Hope to see you again^^ You should visit Jeonju again for the different attractions in each season ! When you want to visit Jeonju again, please contact us by email ~ You will be the special guest for Jeonju Free Shuttle. Thanks !
ReplyDeleteThank you for your attention to my post! I will definitely want to visit Jeonju in the different seasons. I am honored by your offer, and I will contact you when I intend to visit. Thanks! ^^
DeleteThe Deokjin Park you mean ? Have u manage to visit or found the PNB bakery when you were in Jeonju ?
ReplyDeleteI've seen the PMB bakery. If I knew I'd be so free I would have just queued. But the queue was everywhere and so hectic I was too phobic to try ordering.
DeleteThere are other parks besides Deokjin Park, just that I only visited and walked Deokjin Park.
Btw, PNB is next to Gyeonggi Palace!
DeleteAh I see .... Woah if the queue is long then it's better I drop by Hyundai Dept Store since they recently opened a both outlet last month.
ReplyDeleteSo it's easy to spot the bakery then if it's next to the palace =) . I shall visit the palace too then.
Hi Sarah! Thanks for your post as well as the information about the free shuttle service (transport in korea is quite intimidating!). Didn't know about it until I read your blog! I'll be travelling solo to korea later this month and Jeonju looks wonderful. I'll be making a day trip there. :)
ReplyDelete-Angela/fellow singaporean
Hi! Yes the transport system can be intimidating if you don't know Korean. My suggestion: find the Korean translation for places you are going. That way, you can match it to the stop names or ask a person to point you in the direction. Helpful with taxi drivers too! Do try the free shuttle, since it's free! haha Enjoy yourself!
Delete(P.S. Take the toilet trips seriously. Traffic back to Seoul is worse than coming back from KL.)
Hi Sarah, thanks for the informative post. If I have 2.5 days in Jeonju, what else would you recommend? Or would u think 2.5 days would be too long? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteHey! I don't think 2.5 days is very long, considering the many things you can eat in Jeonju! Definitely have a go at the Bibimbap, Baekban, Moju (wine), Makgeolli (more common rice wine), etc. Take your time to visit other places not listed here like the Jeonju Nambu Market, the wallpainting street, and many cafes. Try to catch a traditional performance at the arts theatre near the Confucian school.
DeleteHere's a blog with interesting foods: http://pheurontay.com/jeonju-hanok-village-street-food-guide/